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How to draw a Russian folk costume for men. Fine art lesson "Russian folk festive costume"

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Goals:

  1. To acquaint with the history and traditions of Russian folk holidays.
  2. Cultivate respect, develop interest in folk art.
  3. To fix the concept of “ornament”, its types.
  4. Improve visual skills, the ability to work with gouache.

Visibility: images of Russian folk costumes, ornaments, a panel depicting a rural square, an audio recording of “Ringing Bells”, patterns of human figures, proverbs on the board:

  1. You can't feed a chicken, and you can't dress up a girl.
  2. The woman's shirts are the same bags: tie up the sleeves, but put whatever you want.
  3. They praise silk on a girl when the girl herself has a sense.

I. Organizational moment.

II. Lesson topic announcement

a) conversation

Every nation has holidays. They reveal the soul of a person, his character. In Russia they loved holidays. They met spring and saw off winter, celebrated the completion of field work, and sometimes just the end of the working day. Holidays have always been fun filled with music, singing, games and dancing. Every evening, people of different ages gathered in the evening at someone's hut and sang and danced (danced) there. The song and dance repertoire was very rich and varied. For all seasons, for everything calendar holidays had their own songs, games, dances, fun, nursery rhymes. Often, incantations, jokes, jokes were invented on the spot, on the move - they improvised, especially ditties.

A holiday is not only songs and dances.

How else is this day different from ordinary everyday life? / outfits /

the day before festivities heavy chests were thrown open. The more they were stuffed, the richer the owner of the house was considered. All festive clothes were necessarily decorated with embroidery elements, beads, sequins, which, as a rule, was not in everyday clothes. By the clothes it was possible to judge the taste and skill of the craftswoman, because the peasant woman made the outfit herself<рисунок 1>.

What a variety of festive outfits!

And what do they have in common? (patterns)

How else can you call it? (ornament)

Any Russian costume in the old days was certainly decorated with ornaments and embroidery.

Let's remember what types of ornament do you know?

/plant and geometric/

Attention to the board. Here are the patterns (they can simply be drawn on the board with colored chalk.) Which of them will not be ornaments? Why? /in the ornament, the elements are depicted in a certain order, rhythmically./

The game "Compose a melody to the ornament."

b) STORY about Russian folk costumes.

Let's take a closer look at the outfits.

The basis of any Russian costume was a shirt<рисунок 1и 2>. Shirts with a fastener on the side were called blouses. These were usually worn by men. Also, their outfit included pants that were tucked into boots or onuchi (a piece of fabric), and bast shoes were worn on top of the onuchi.

The shirt was wide and was decorated along the hem, along the collar, along the edge of the sleeves with embroidery. And be sure to tie it with a sash.<рисунок 2>.

Belts performed many functions: they spoke about the well-being of a person, and were also a reward and a gift, and were inherited. Festive shirts were embroidered with silk colored threads. Preference was given to red (as a talisman).

Particular importance was attached to the location of the picture. For example:

  • chest patterns - protected the heart and lungs,
  • shoulder - guarded hands,
  • bottom - did not allow evil forces to get through from below.

In the central and northern regions of Russia, women wore a sundress for the holidays.<рисунок 3>.

The smooth lines of the sundress seemed to flow, making the woman look like a swan. No wonder in songs and fairy tales they are called swans.

The festive attire also included the so-called dushegrey - epanechki or shorts - short blouses with straps, similar to sarafans<рисунок 4>.

And in southern regions Russian women of fashion dressed a ponevny complex<рисунок 5>.

Poneva - skirt. She always dressed over a shirt, then came an apron, and then a top.

The apron was generously decorated with embroidery<рисунок 6>.

Red prevailed. This is the color of fire, the sun, magical, beautiful, a symbol of salvation and a sign of an obstacle to evil forces. This color was supposed to scare away demons and spirits that have a human appearance, store and protect the owner from various misfortunes.

The top is an outer garment worn in autumn or spring. The tip was not girded<рисунок 7>.

And finally, hats.

They were clearly divided into girls' and married women's dresses:

Kokoshniki, ribbons, wreaths /girls/.

Koruna, magpie, kichka /female/.

In the names of headdresses, one can hear a relationship with a bird: kokoshnik, kichka, magpie. And this is no coincidence. Remember fairy tales: a swan, a white swan, like a peacock.

c) Work with proverbs.

III. Practical work – creation of a collective panel on the theme “Holiday in the village”.

Students are given figurines depicting people and need to make them festive clothes.

Task differentiated:

1 group: colorize ready-made figurines, already “dressed” - a task for slow-moving children and those who have difficulty with self-image. Design your own ornament.

2 group: “Dress” paper figurine, i.e. design and draw your own festive outfit.

Group 3 (children who draw well): portray figure of a man in a festive costume.

The main condition is the presence of an ornament in clothes.

Finished works are glued onto a pre-prepared panel depicting a rural square with a cathedral and peasant houses. /Audio recording “Ringing bells” - people gather in the cathedral square./

IV. Outcome.

Everything in life changes, but the holiday remains. And although he can cope in different ways, the main thing remains - joy, special excitement, fun, elegant clothes, gifts, songs and dances, which are now sometimes mysterious to us. However, these traditions are unusual and special. They need to be remembered and known.

Did you remember?

This is what we are going to check now.

Children are given cards-arrows with words-names of the Russian language. folk clothes:

- shirt - epanechka - kokoshnik
- sash - short - coruna
- kosovorotka - poneva - magpie
- onuchi - apron - kitsch.
- sundress - tip

It is necessary to connect the arrow cards with the items of clothing in the pictures so that they match the names.

V. Evaluation of works.

In chapter

There are different tasks. Here you sit sometimes and think How to draw a Russian folk costume? And what about a child?

ISO step by step instructions

Russian folk women's costume with a sundress. Step-by-step instruction how to draw a Russian folk costume with a pencil.

Russian folk girl's costume - a shirt with a belt. Step-by-step instructions on how to draw a female Russian folk costume with a pencil in stages. First, we draw a vertical line - this is our axis of symmetry, then we outline three horizontal lines - the lines of the shoulders, hips and waist. Depending on what kind of costume we are drawing: a northern Russian one with a mandatory sundress or a southern Russian one with an apron and pony, the waist line is located differently. In the northern versions - it is overestimated, in the southern - it is in place. Then a skirt is outlined from the waist line, and future sleeves from the shoulder line. For simplicity, the sleeve line can be drawn parallel to the skirt line. We finish the sleeve at the level of the hips. Thus, we have a pseudo-layout ready, on the basis of which we will draw a costume.

1. We draw a Russian costume based on a sundress.

Alyonushka girl in Russian folk costume. A breakdown into separate stages, how to draw a costume yourself.

Publications in the Traditions section

Meet by clothes

Russian women, even simple peasant women, were rare fashionistas. In their voluminous chests there were many - at least three dozen - a variety of outfits. Especially our ancestors loved headdresses - simple, for every day, and festive, embroidered with beads, decorated with gems. And how they loved beads! ..

For the formation of any national costume(whether it be English, Chinese or the Bora-Bora tribe), its cut and ornamentation has always been influenced by factors such as geographical position, climate, the main occupations of the people.

“The more closely you study the Russian folk costume as a work of art, the more you find in it values, and it becomes a figurative chronicle of the life of our ancestors, which, in the language of color, shape, ornament, reveals to us many secret secrets and laws of the beauty of folk art.”

M.N. Mertsalova. "Poetry of folk costume"

In Russian costumes. Moore, 1906-1907. Private collection (Kazankov archive)

Here in the Russian costume, which began to take shape to XII century, laid detailed information about our people - a worker, a plowman, a farmer, living for centuries in conditions short summer and a long bitter winter. What to do endless winter evenings when a blizzard howls outside the window, a blizzard sweeps? Our foremothers-needlewomen wove, sewed, embroidered. They did. “There is a beauty of movement and a beauty of stillness. Russian folk costume is the beauty of peace"- wrote the artist Ivan Bilibin.

Shirt

The main element of the Russian costume. Composite or one-piece, made of cotton, linen, silk, muslin or simple canvas, the shirt certainly reached the ankles. The hem, sleeves and collar of shirts, and sometimes the chest part, were decorated with embroidery, braid, and patterns. Moreover, the colors and ornaments differed depending on the region and province. Voronezh women preferred black embroidery, strict and refined. In the Tula and Kursk regions, shirts are usually tightly embroidered with red threads. In the northern and central provinces, red, blue and black prevailed, sometimes gold.

They put on different shirts depending on what kind of work was to be done. There were "mowing", "stubble" shirts, there was also "fishing". It is interesting that the working shirt for the harvest has always been richly decorated and equated to a festive one.

Russian women often embroidered incantatory signs or a prayer amulet on their shirts, because they believed that, using the fruits of the earth for food, taking life from wheat, rye or fish, they violate the natural harmony, come into conflict with nature. Before killing an animal or mowing the grass, the woman said: “Forgive me, Lord!”

Shirt - "fishing". End of the 19th century. Arkhangelsk province, Pinezhsky district, Nikitinskaya volost, Shardonemskoe village.

Slant shirt. Vologda province. 2nd half of the 19th century

By the way, about the etymology of the word "shirt". It does not come at all from the verb “chopping” (although chopping wood in such clothes is certainly convenient), but from old Russian word"rub" - frontier, edge. So, the shirt is a sewn cloth, with scars. Previously, they said not to “hem”, but to “cut”. However, this expression still occurs today.

Sundress

The word "sarafan" comes from the Persian "saran pa" - "over the head." It was first mentioned in the Nikon Chronicle of 1376. As a rule, a trapezoidal silhouette, a sundress was worn over a shirt. At first it was a purely masculine attire, the ceremonial vestments of princes with long folding sleeves, sewn from expensive fabrics - silk, velvet, brocade. From the nobles, the sundress passed to the clergy, and only after that it was entrenched in the women's wardrobe.

Sundresses were of several types: deaf, oar, straight. Swings were sewn from two panels, which were connected with beautiful buttons or fasteners. A straight (round) sundress was attached to the straps. A deaf wedge-shaped sundress with longitudinal wedges and beveled inserts on the sides was also popular.

Sundresses with shower warmers

Recreated Holiday Sundresses

The most common colors and shades for sundresses are dark blue, green, red, blue, dark cherry. Festive and wedding sundresses were sewn mainly from brocade or silk, and everyday ones from coarse cloth or chintz. However, the overseas word "sarafan" rarely sounded in Russian villages. More often - kostych, damask, kumachnik, bruise or kosoklinnik.

“The beauties of different classes dressed up almost the same - the difference was only in the price of furs, the weight of gold and the brilliance of stones. The commoner "on the way out" put on a long shirt, over it - an embroidered sundress and a warm jacket trimmed with fur or brocade. The boyar - a shirt, an outer dress, a letnik (clothes expanding downwards with precious buttons), and on top also a fur coat for greater importance.

Veronica Bathan. "Russian beauties"

Over the sarafan, a short shower warmer was worn (something like a modern jacket), which was festive clothing for the peasants, and everyday for the nobility. A shower jacket (katsaveyka, quilted jacket) was sewn from expensive, dense fabrics - velvet, brocade.

Portrait of Catherine II in Russian dress. Painting by Stefano Torelli

Portrait of Catherine II in shugay and kokoshnik. Painting by Vigilius Eriksen

Portrait of Grand Duchess Alexandra Pavlovna in Russian costume. Unknown artist. 1790javascript:void(0)

Empress Catherine the Great, who was reputed to be a trendsetter, returned to use the Russian sundress, clothes that had been forgotten by the Russian upper class after the reforms of Peter, who not only shaved the beards of the boyars, but also forbade going to traditional clothes, imputing subjects to follow European style. The Empress considered it necessary to instill in Russian subjects a sense of national dignity and pride, a sense of historical self-sufficiency. As soon as she sat on the Russian throne, Catherine began to dress in Russian dress, setting an example for the court ladies. Once, at a reception with Emperor Joseph II, Ekaterina Alekseevna appeared in a scarlet velvet Russian dress studded with large pearls, with a star on her chest and a diamond diadem on her head. And here is another documentary evidence: "The Empress was in a Russian dress - a light green silk dress with a short train and a corsage of gold brocade, with long sleeves",- wrote an Englishman who visited the Russian court.

Poneva

Just a skirt. Mandatory part of the wardrobe married woman. Poneva consisted of three panels, could be deaf or oar. As a rule, its length depended on the length of the women's shirt. The hem of the poneva was decorated with patterns and embroidery. Most often, poneva was made of half-woolen fabric in a cage.

It was worn over a shirt and wrapped around the hips, and a woolen cord (gashnik) held it at the waist. An apron was often worn in front. In Russia, for girls who had reached the age of majority, there was a rite of putting on a poneva, which said that the girl could already be betrothed.

Belt

Women's wool belts

Belts with Slavic patterns

Belt weaving loom

An integral part of not only the Russian costume, the custom of wearing a belt is common among many peoples of the world. In Russia, it has long been accepted that the lower women's shirt should always be belted, there was even a ritual of girdling a newborn girl. The belt - a magic circle - protected from evil spirits, and therefore they did not take it off even in the bath. Walking unbelted was considered a great sin. Hence the meaning of the word "unbelted" - to become impudent, to forget about decency. By the end of the 19th century, in some southern regions, it began to be allowed to wear a belt just under a sundress. The belts were woolen, linen and cotton, they were crocheted or woven. Sometimes the sash could reach a length of three meters, such were worn by unmarried girls; hem with a three-dimensional geometric pattern - married women. A yellow-red belt made of woolen fabric, decorated with braid and ribbons, turned around on holidays.

Apron

Women's urban suit in folk style: jacket, apron. Russia, late 19th century

Women's costume of the Moscow province. Restoration, contemporary photography

It not only protected clothes from contamination, but also served as an additional decoration for the festive attire, giving it a finished and monumental look. The apron was worn over a shirt, sundress and poneva. However, in Russia the word “zapon” was more common - from the verb “zapinati” (to close, delay). The defining and most richly decorated part of the outfit - patterns, silk ribbons and trim inserts. The edge is decorated with lace and frills. From the embroidery on the apron it was possible, as if from a book, to read the story women's life: family creation, number and sex of children, deceased relatives and preferences of the owner. Each curl, each stitch emphasized individuality.

Headdress

Headgear depended on age and marital status. He predetermined the entire composition of the costume. Girls' headdresses left part of their hair open and were quite simple: ribbons, bandages, hoops, openwork crowns, scarves folded in a bundle.

After the wedding and the ceremony of “untwisting the braid”, the girl acquired the status of a woman and wore a “kitka of a young woman”. With the birth of her first child, she was replaced by a horned kichka or a high spade-shaped headdress, a symbol of fertility and the ability to bear children. Married women were required to cover their hair completely under a headdress. According to the old Russian custom, a scarf (ubrus) was put on over the kichka.

The kokoshnik was the ceremonial headdress of a married woman. Married women put on kichka and kokoshnik when they left the house, and at home, as a rule, they wore a povoinik (cap) and a scarf.

The age of the owners was easily determined by color scheme. Young girls dressed most colorfully before the birth of a child. The costumes of the elderly and children were distinguished by a modest palette.

Women's costume abounded in patterns. Embroideries on sundresses and shirts echoed the carved frame of a village hut. An image of people, animals, birds, plants and geometric figures. dominated solar signs, circles, crosses, rhombic figures, deer, birds.

Cabbage style

A distinctive feature of the Russian national costume is its layering. Everyday costume was as simple as possible, it consisted of the most necessary elements. For comparison: a festive women's costume of a married woman could include about 20 items, and everyday - only seven. The girls wore a three-part ensemble for every outing. The shirt was complemented with a sundress and a kokoshnik or a pony and magpie. According to popular beliefs, multi-layered spacious clothes protected the hostess from the evil eye. Wearing less than three layers of dresses was considered indecent. The layered attire of the nobility emphasized their wealth.

The main fabrics used for folk peasant clothing were homespun canvas and wool, and from the middle of the 19th century - factory-made silk, satin, brocade with ornaments, calico, chintz, satin. A trapezoidal or straight monumental silhouette, the main types of cut, a picturesque decorative and color scheme, kichki, magpies - all this existed in the peasant environment right up to the middle - late XIX century, when the traditional costume begins to supplant urban fashion. Clothes are increasingly purchased in the store, less often sewn to order.

We thank the artists Tatyana, Margarita and Tais Karelin, winners of international and city national costume competitions and teachers, for the photos provided.

A couple of days ago, Alena Belova wrote to me with a request to show me how to draw a folk costume with a pencil. I have already done a lot of drawing lessons of different clothes. You will see links to them below, under this lesson. And for this, I picked up a picture depicting women's festive clothes from the Tver province of the 19th century:

On the left is a sundress, shirt and belt. On the right is a girl's festive shirt with a belt. If you were asked this topic in a history lesson or from this topic, you can use this lesson:

How to draw a Russian folk costume with a pencil step by step

Step one. I sketch the main parts of the costumes. This is no different from a sketch of a person, only without the head and legs. Here it is also important to observe proportions.

Step two. We draw the shape of the dresses. Folk costumes (at least ours) were not distinguished by openness, so here almost the entire body is hidden.

Step three. Highly important point it's folds. Without them, the drawing will look like a paper dress. Try to show all possible bends and shadows from them on the dress.

Step four. Another one distinguishing feature folk costume is an abundance of patterns. It's not just some fiction from Armani or Gucci. Each pattern means something. It is difficult to draw them, but if you do not, it will be difficult for the viewer to determine: is this a dress of some young lady or a folk costume? And so, looking only for a second, anyone will determine without errors.

Step five. If you add hatching, the drawing will become more realistic.

I already wrote above that I have a lot of drawing lessons here. You can take any topic that has clothes and draw. But I have selected the best topic lessons from this and give them to you.



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